this is the sport in this country smoking

Pristina, Kosovo: "This is the sport in this country, smoking," says our Nigerian host from the UN Human Settlements Program.

And sure enough, everyone is smoking, in their cars, in bars, on the street, even at petrol stations. Cigarettes are about 1.5euro a pack of twenty, so in a country where other entertainment is hard to come by, smoking represents excellent value.

"Nine out of 10 people smoke. When you walk around they offer you cigarettes, they are offended if you do not smoke."

Briggs wants to fit in. He buys a pack quickly and smokes steadily throughout the evening. He is torn, though. He wants to smoke in the Mexican restaurant, but feels hidebound by the conditioning of the draconian rules in the UK.

"You are thinking this is a civilised country," says our guide, with a laugh.

Our French friend from one of the many international agencies reassures him that there is no need to ask. People like to see a man smoking.

Touring a couple of bars, we meet UN and EU workers from Sweden, Lithuania, Portugal, the Netherlands, France and Germany. But they are not really nationals. They are internationals. They stay in their elite bubble here in the Balkans, transferring from one agency to the next. There is a suggestion they do not pay much tax, and the expenses are very good. The Daily Express would not be pleased.

The Italian we meet is everything you would want in an international worker. Beige suite, with impeccably pressed trousers, a perfectly trimmed beard and a relaxed and charming demeanour. He has just had an excellent meal.

Our host tells him we are off to Prizren.

"And have you told your friends in Prizren they shoot in the street?"

"Yes, but they shoot in the air and so we do not need flak jackets. We just need the helmets for when the bullets come down."